Alpine Climbing by Kathy Cosley

Author:Kathy Cosley
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: The Mountaineers Books

Where should I build it?

What belay method will I use?

How should it be constructed and

evaluated?

These questions are interrelated. For example, the decision to belay directly off the anchor versus off your harness may influence how and where you construct your anchor. Conversely, the location of your anchor may limit your choice between direct or harness belay.

Choosing where to build the belay. Many considerations play a role in deciding where to stop and build a belay anchor. Two of them—desired pitch length and terrain constraints—are discussed in the preceding section. Beyond these, consider the following factors:

Comfort. Everything else being equal, it is preferable to pause on a ledge rather than hang your butt over the void! Cramped or awkward stances slow the changeovers between leaders and increase the likelihood of serious mistakes such as dropping things. Wherever possible, try not to force yourself or your partner to deal with an uncomfortable position or location.

Visibility and communication. Whenever possible, place your belay so that you will be in sight and/or hearing of your partner. Poor communication can be unnerving, and it often results in wasted time.

Efficiency of anchor building. Be an opportunist—watch for places where you can build an anchor quickly and easily. If you find a good horn or a big tree, consider stopping your pitch short, especially if you are not sure the possibilities above will be as good.

Convenience for where the route goes next. If you can identify the line of the route ahead, place your belay where it is convenient for the next pitch; for example, where you will get good visibility, minimal rope drag, and protection from any possible leader-generated rockfall.

Safety. Clearly, this overrides all other considerations. Locate your anchor where the belayer will be reasonably safe from objective hazards.

Choosing the belay method. At the same time that you are answering the questions of where and how to construct your anchor, you need to decide how you will belay. The choice is essentially between a direct belay off the anchor and one off the harness or body. We discuss the pros and cons of various belay methods in Belaying Options and Alpine Considerations, above, but we mention them again here to emphasize the point that your choice of belay method both influences and is influenced by factors of where and how you construct the anchor. Also, consider what happens on the route above you and how your chosen method will transition efficiently to the upcoming climbing.

Constructing and evaluating belay anchors. In this section, we assume the reader has knowledge of how to place and evaluate individual pieces of protection and how to build secure rock belay anchors. Here we concentrate on those aspects that maximize speed and efficiency and are, therefore, most applicable in alpine climbing.

An alpine belay anchor can take many forms, varying in response to the specific needs of the situation. In the mountains, these are more complex than at the crag, and the alpine climber must think a bit more creatively. Because of the

Download

Copyright Disclaimer:
This site does not store any files on its server. We only index and link to content provided by other sites. Please contact the content providers to delete copyright contents if any and email us, we'll remove relevant links or contents immediately.